All the hardware is modeled in the step file, you'll need some M3 heat set inserts, 5mm dowel, and 8mm flat head and cap head m3 fastners. MGN12 200mm with an H block.
Current build is using a single F695 bearing on the large idler, this is optional for smooth running and many other bearings could replace it with changed size holes.
Hey y'all, I'm planning on being a bit more active here in the future, yay!
Here's two parts I threw together and remixed with Tempest's originals to address some early needs I've seen people have: belt tensioning and mounting.
Tensioner:
Replaces the stock Idler and Spine Top to allow approximately 10mm of tensioner adjustment on the belt.
Uses: ...
2023-03-30 04:12:04 +0000 UTC View Post
This is the first version of this idea I'm happy enough with to release, even though there are still a few changes to make. I'm putting this in a few private places because I'm not sure if there's issues I've missed and it's not done, but I love having a receiver that's got managed wires and less potential for pinch points. I also figure that the best way to get myself to finish up my ideas on ...
2022-07-23 03:01:53 +0000 UTC View Post
It's now assembled, I don't have a full connector solution yet other than soldering and crimping, but it's not difficult stuff.
Picture 1 is the lube attachment, the tubing bends inwards and connects at the top of the case.
Picture 2 is the lube attachment inside the end of the sleeve. It's a loose fit both against the sleeve and between tubing and plastic to try and prevent it from...
2022-06-22 09:07:48 +0000 UTC View Post
I'm pretty happy with this version. The lube path is fully silicone/ptfe, tip pops into the end of the fleshlight and moves with it. Wiring is run all the way up to the top and is intended to output in a bundle along with the ptfe tubing that carries lube. Aluminum tape spreads the heat from these adafruit kapton heater pads well, but other heaters would fit in this location too. Vibrators will...
2022-06-21 05:57:58 +0000 UTC View Post
Been a bit too long since I posted here, but I've been getting into batteries and portable devices recently and here's what I'm bringing back from the exploration.
This is intended to be in the handle for the rotating fleshlight case, which is not connected when used with a SR6 or other robot.
T-Code controlled rotation + heat in a handheld format seems fun. That toggle switch...
Pretty happy with this case. Even though I need to widen the wiring channels a bit it feels super solid. I mounted the 3 vibration motors separately from the heaters so they would not contact. These motors seem to be good up to about 60c, which isn't a goal temperature but I don't want to wear them out by letting them near a fluctuating PID heater. I'm using two of the larger kapton heate...
2022-04-21 05:34:00 +0000 UTC View Post
Tabs rolled over too much to stay retained. I could have put a screw through the twist ring into the case, but eh....
Anyway, it's got a built in axial twist servo, heater compartments, and wire routing. obviously there's no need for so much wire in there, but i haven't cut the stuff to length or combined them yet, and it's a good example of it's capacity. that's two of the polyamide hea...
Sorry about the bad image quality, didn't realize my lens was dirty.
I'll probably reduce the amount of fasteners this angle bracket uses as it's extremely rigid as is. This allows for 180+ degree angle adjustment as well as any amount of height adjustment. Replacing some of the fasteners with plastic that runs in the extrusion channel should make it easier to adjust. Right now it b...
2022-03-16 12:40:16 +0000 UTC View Post
This is the fourth version of extrusion arrangements I've tried for this mount and it's the first one I'm happy about, so it's what I'm going to attempt to release a easy to build at home version of. Once I like, design it all, beyond the bare bones blocks above I used to prototype it.
My design goal is for this to be something people can grab from the closet with one hand, clamp to t...
2022-03-13 07:32:52 +0000 UTC View Post
This sits on top of your ESP32 and distributes your robot's power without soldering. Simply strip and tightly twist your leads together, and insert them into the lever nut, making sure to give each lead a tug to make sure it's secure. I recommend not doing more than 2 wires per Wago hole.
BOM:
Wago 221-415 x2
Wago 221-412 x2
edit: I've added a version w...
NOTE: If you are using JX servos, please get the JX versions below, they have slightly different mount patterns than most servos, which is enough to cause some alignment issues with M4 bolts. Thanks geogan for bringing this issue to my attention and helping to test fit the edited versions!
BOM:
M4x14mm (x25) (Required)
M4 Hex Nut (x1) (Required)
M3x5x4 Heat Set In...
2022-01-16 23:43:19 +0000 UTC View Post
The attached videos are little teasers I've posted on Tempest's discord, but I think I'm going to end up making one with actual hardware to it so I can mount accessories and batteries to it.
Height adjustment will be in the first version, unless I have a good idea of how to do it I don't plan to have "in use" angle adjustment on the first version. Swappable angle plates a...
2022-01-04 12:00:57 +0000 UTC View Post
Putting this here so I can update it as needed, if you've got input feel free to share. ESP32s are easy to use, but getting over that first learning curve is easier with an image.
2021-12-19 00:05:42 +0000 UTC View Post
This uses a small 4010 fan to blow air (mostly) out of the servo gaps, via an air intake. You can stuff a little crumpled up scrap of paper in the gaps of the micro usb port then fully tighten down the ESP32 if you want to direct even more air out of the servo gaps. Be sure to not compress the buttons.
You must have at least 37mm between your servos. This is 1mm more than Tempe...
2021-12-12 14:51:18 +0000 UTC View Post
These are almost identical to the stock SR6 Beta 1 arms with the following differences:
Servo horn screw access
Slightly tighter tolerances (0.2mm on each side) at the end of the horn, for less wobble. Smoothing pass on the hard edges.
NOTE: Added 3mm and 4mm hardware versions to the zip, the 4mm version is for use with the stock BOM hardware, M4 bolts. The 3m...
2021-11-08 14:26:33 +0000 UTC View Post
NOTE: I've updated this pack to contain both stock thickness arms and arms that are reduced by 0.5mm (some servo splines are a little farther out and this can cause the pitch arms to rub together more than desired) as well as arms that have 3mm and 4mm holes, if you find yourself using 3mm ID rod ends like I am.
These are the same as the stock pitch arms except for horn screw access and ...
I don't have the full BOM for this yet, as I'm testing some lower weight components, but regardless of how you put rod ends on your arms, this should help make sure you have the spacing correct for 175mm SR6 Links. There's a M3 and M4 version for different types of rod end bearings.
These straight links will not work on the pitch links, which I'll hopefully have working soon along with a...
Quick update: Voron is done, it rules, and I'm actively developing mods again. I've back burnered the SR2 quiet case because I don't have a great idea of how I want to finish it off. I'm sure I'll return to it soon now that I can print things larger than 80x80 without bearings exploding on my old machine, but I've got too many ideas I know how I want to work on, plus SR6 beta is out, it's sweet...
2021-10-31 03:22:32 +0000 UTC View Post
Probably about two weeks from being able to print things larger than 80mm reliably, yay!
2021-10-18 05:39:09 +0000 UTC View Post
I'm about 8 hours into building it over the past two days, I'm going slow to make sure I don't get stuck with big rebuild later. I've also possibly been converted to using heat set inserts again, the dual helical gear type are significantly better than the ones I used to use...
This printer is sweet, and a 350mm^3 2020 cube is surprisingly light!
Update: The V2 stl below fits Lumifel's single print receiver and has mount holes for further modding.
This dampens the sharp gear noise that comes off the Parallax servo, but does not make it overall much quieter, just a bit less grating on my ears. I suggest printing this in PETG, however TPU is probably the best option, I just can't test it myself at the moment. PLA is total...
2021-10-09 17:16:02 +0000 UTC View Post
NOTE: Print the spacer to bring your A11CLS back to parallel, this servo's spline is 2.55mm below the stock SG90 spline.
Quick little part mod as I get my workshop redone, if you've got an AGFRC A11CLS micro servo, this has 24mm center to center mounting holes to allow you to use it with your valve. Works with all other stock valve parts.
Note: this release version uses the open so...
2021-10-04 03:53:27 +0000 UTC View Post
Waaaay earlier than expected. I'll post progress pics!
2021-09-24 03:50:58 +0000 UTC View Post
How's that for a part name? It's a drop in replacement for the T-Valve Blades part, and it looks like a scorpion, so... I guess that's what it's called.
Includes built in supports, just open the stl and print it with your usual settings. If you would prefer to use your own supports, I've included a version with no included supports.
Moving the force from the screw over to the blade...
Printer's dying, so I'm printing parts for a Voron 2.4 before I resume dev on my case. About 80% done thankfully!
2021-09-09 06:27:30 +0000 UTC View Post
I've had to go back to redesign some parts with my quieter SR2 case, the assembly was just a bit too complex so I'm simplifying. Until then, here's some screen lids for your current SR6. The SR6 beta will likely change this part.
Add your nuts of choice (M3 hex nut, or M3 square nut 5.5mm x 5.5mm x 2mm or similar tolerance) and your standard 0.96 inch 128x64 OLED. There's a lit...
2021-08-25 03:27:02 +0000 UTC View Post
This is where I'm at with the quiet case, by the way. Red parts are servo mounts and front covers, green part is where the controllers, power, and fan stuff goes.
Yellow is something that is still a few revisions from done, but it's a pitch arm with cable routing. You can put servo extensions inside this, screw it closed, and not have to think about where your twist servo leads and heater...
2021-08-13 18:49:27 +0000 UTC View Post
NOTE: There is a good chance we will see the SR6 Beta soon, and these parts are not going to be compatible as they require my Nutted SR6 Base part, which I've included in the zip.
2021-08-04 05:52:27 +0000 UTC
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The part on the outside of the servo is custom fit to this model servo, but it's also an optional part and should fit a lot of other servos that have the same "face" shape.
Heat sinks are 15 x 15 x 6.5mm, and are optional but not using them would greatly reduce the amount of sound deadening you can use. Without heatsinks, fully enclosing the servos with TPU (or another substitute materia...