Najdmie

Sewing WIP 2: Military Jacket, Flap Pocket

Added 2025-02-20 17:08:41 +0000 UTC

I wrote some study notes. May as well post it here.

All files available here. Or download the attachment.

PICTURES

Front

Back

DRAFT

A = Welt width = 15.5 cm

B = Welt height =1.6 cm (5/8”)

C = Bag seam allowance = 1.3 cm (1/2”)

D = Welt seam allowance = B/2 = 0.8 cm (5/16”)

E = Pocket height = as desired = 20 cm

* The flap can be any shape and height, but the width should match the welt width.

PATTERN

1. Welt

Trace blue outline then unfold along the top or bottom.
Add seam allowance, half the welt height (0.8 cm) (5/16”), to the top and bottom.
Add 1.3 cm (1/2”) seam allowance to both sides.

2. Pocket bag (over)

Trace blue outline.
Add seam allowance to the top only.
Seam allowance is half the welt height (0.8 cm)(5/16”)
I mark 1.3 cm from the top corners as a guide

3. Pocket bag (under)

Trace blue outline.
Add seam allowance to the top only.
Seam allowance is half the welt height (0.8 cm)(5/16”)
I mark 1.3 cm from the top corners as a guide
Facing pattern using the same fabric as the garment can be included so that the pocketing fabric is not visible when the pocket is open. This is omitted in this pattern.

4. Flap

Trace blue outline
Add seam allowance to the top, half the welt height (0.8 cm)(9/16”)
Add the rest of seam allowance as desired, 1 cm in this case.
Prepare two pieces per pocket.

PATTERN CUTTING

1. Projecting

I arrange the patterns with the edges touching so that I can cut them all in one go.
If your fabric is dark you need to turn your projection pictures into negative (black line into white line, white background into black background)

2. Tracing

Because this is muslin, I can use pencil to trace the pattern first before cutting. Once I have the tracing, I switch the projection to black screen. Now even if the fabric moves, I already have the accurate pattern traced.

3. Cutting

I cut mainly using rotary cutter. But scissors are always needed because the rotary cutter blade become dull really fast.
You may notice some seam allowance markings and some other guide lines.

4. Marking the 'wrong side'.

I flip them all and draw X to mark the ‘wrong side’. Really good practice to know which side you are working on.

SEWING

Assemble the two flap pieces, right side together.
Newbie like me clip or pin them.

Sew except the top part according to your seam allowance value (1 cm).

Snip off the corners.

Iron seam open. Turn and iron the flap flat.

Prepare the main fabric 'right side' facing up. Mark the pocket location. I draw the whole welt outline including the slit line and the triangle.
Consider applying fusible interfacing now.

Place the open edge of the flap on the slit line. Pin them.

Baste stitch. Make sure to use the longest stitch length and do not backstitch. We will remove this stitch later.

Fold and iron the welt.

Place the folded welt below the flap. The open raw edge is on the slit line. Pin them.

Baste stitch

Place the pocket bag (over) below the flap, with the ‘wrong side’ facing up. The upper edge is on the slit line. To be precise, the edge with the seam allowance should be the upper edge, but it doesn't really matter. Pin them.
The pocket bag (over) must be the shorter one between the two pocket bags. This is the piece that will sit in front of the other when the garment is worn.

Place the pocket bag (under) on top of the flap, with the ‘wrong side’ facing up. The lower edge in on the slit line .To be precise, the edge with the seam allowance should be the lower edge, but it doesn't really matter. Pin them.
The pocket bag (under) must be the longer one between the two pocket bags. This is the piece that will sit behind the other when the garment is worn.

Draw the welt outline (unless you are pro).
Recall that the welt height is 1.6 cm (5/8”). The sides are 1.3 cm (1/2”) from the edge of pocket bags. The slit line lays horizontally on the center.

Sew the welt outline.
Use short stich length because they need to be tight and strong, especially around the corner.
Be extra careful to sew just outside the sides of the flap, but not trough them.
If you zoom in you can see that I shifted the stich a bit to avoid the flap, which is not ideal. They all should be straight and neat.

Draw the triangle at the corner.
Recall that the point of the triangle is 1.3 cm (1/2”) from the side of welt outline.

Cut the slit line of the main fabric. Do not cut the main fabric inside the triangle.
Cut the triangle of all the fabric. Make sure to cut very close to the corner, but not through. Cut as close to the corner as you can else, they will be more puckering when you turn the pieces later.

The most confusing part. I’m not sure if I do it right.
Remove all basting stiches.
Insert both pockets bag through the hole.
Flip the pocket welt to cover the hole, the folded edge is on top.
Flip the flap outside at its natural position, covering the welt. It seam allowance is inside.
You may need to fold some seam allowances.
Iron them all neatly.

This is the front view when the flap is lifted, showing the welt.

This is the back view. You can see some of the triangle pieces hanging loose at the corner

This is the back view when the pocket bag (under) is lifted showing the welt and pocket bag (over).
Notice that the ‘right side’ of the pocket bag is facing each other. This doesn’t really matter if your pocketing fabric doesn’t have wrong and right side.