Single-breasted Jacket

Reference garment: No reference to specific brand.

Instruction base on Jungclaus

Fabric: Woven.  I use wool for collar and sleeve, and default fabric for bodice. But I change all textures to cotton twill.

Not shown in video: Pocket and buttons. The project file includes all the garments put together to form a complete men suit. Some pieces like the collar and necktie are frozen to maintain shape. The are also some hidden pieces to help hold things together.

FOLLOW ALONG TIPS

- If this is your first time drafting a tailored jacket, you will fail.

- Clo is recommended instead of MD. Certain useful drafting tool like guideline and baseline are not available in MD. I use guideline a lot in this video. MD user can use internal line or just eyeball it.

- Always has the avatar measurement ready (Thomas v2).

- Height = avatar's height 187.96 cm

- Chest = chest circumference 96.52 cm

- Waist to low hip 19.19 cm

- Neck = neck base circumference 40.96 cm

- CB neck to waist 48.58 cm

- Arm 65.5 cm

- Garment length 78 cm. At this length the hem is at crotch level.

.

- This particular draft has built-in seam allowance at some section. Don't forget to subtract it.

- I use shoulder pad in this garment. I don't know about everyone else, but I cannot find the shoulder pad in the newer version of Clo/MD. Luckily, I have saved them from earlier version of MD. If you are my Patron, you can obtain it from the project file. Or, you can make one yourself, or just omit it.

- If you are an experienced Seamly2D/Valentina user, or want to draft on paper, just read the book instead. The instruction in the book is step by step and easy to follow.

- For a designer, making this from scratch is probably a waste of time. There are already really good jacket blocks in Clo/MD library.

ABOUT ARMHOLE/SLEEVE CAP NOTCHES

- I manually distribute sleeve cap ease using notches. I actually recommend NOT using the notches because it easier to make adjustment to armhole and sleeve without them. I'm using the instruction from Myoungok. Below is the snippet from the book page 31.

- Most other book like ESMOD distribute the sleeve cap ease to the top only. (Snippet from the book below).

ADJUSTING THE SLEEVE-CAP/ARMHOLE SEWING

Provided that the pattern is correct, the sleeve may not drape properly if the sewing is not done at the right location. Jungclaus does not indicate on the pattern where to put the sewing notches. I determined the location by trial and error.

You can adjust the fit of the sleeve by "rotating" the sewing, a concept that is very hard for first timer to visualize.  Basically, you shift the location of "underarm point" on the sleeve cap slightly, while keeping the location of the "underarm point" on the armhole the same. However, you can do it the other way around, whichever you prefer. The following diagrams may help.

Of course, the way you sew is just one of the factors to the determine the fit of the sleeve. Other important factors are the height and width of sleeve cap, and the amount of ease. From my experience, the exact shape of the sleeve cap does not matter much, as long as it is "bell shape" with the curve direction reversed near the bottom.

This is the longest post I made so far, and deservedly so because a tailored jacket is one of the most complicated garments to make. Even if you get all the patterns right, the current state of 3D simulation may be a limiting factor. I don't even touch other aspect like lining and steaming.

This is absolutely not the best way to make tailored jacket.  In fact, you can get better result by the old-fashion 3D sculpting. I will continue to try all the instruction that I find and share it with you.

DOWNLOAD LINK

Download link for 3D files (expire after a month).

Download link for 2D files. The folder name is "Thomas - Jungclaus - Single-breasted Jacket 231212". The exported DXF file already have the built-in seam allowance subtracted so you don't have to manually remove it. However, you will find many points generated along the curves. You need to manually select them and "convert to curve point" , or redraw them as standard bezier curve. The location of the "underarm-point" on sleeve cap is marked as baseline.