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Rex Krueger
Rex Krueger

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Exclusive Video: A Chapter From My Restoration Course

Friends: 

We're hard at work on our next course: Restoring the Vintage Plane in Real Time. 

Just like the title says, it's a full restoration of a Stanley No 5 in real time, with nothing left out and very few edits. The course is super-detailed and will be several hours long. I'm really excited about it. 

Today, we're sharing Chapter 3: Cleaning and De-Rusting. It's the longest chapter we've made so far and it's full of tips and tricks that I've learned and developed in a decade of tool restoration. There's no discount or special offer; you just get this chapter for free, just to say thanks. 

We'll start looking at your scholarship applications next week and we'll announce the winners as soon as possible. 

Happy Saturday!

--Rex

Exclusive Video: A Chapter From My Restoration Course

Comments

It's the "rag-in-a-can" by Paul Sellers. You can find videos by him explaining how to make one. It's regular 3-in-1 oil/hobby oil.

Thomas Hverring

I forgot to commend you on your warnings about wire wheels. My first vintage plane was a nice Sweetheart No 4 but a bit grimy. I wanted to clean the frog a bit but I didn’t anticipate the sudden downward force from the wheel and nicked the edge by the mouth. This plane went also a hundred years in almost perfect condition and in less than a day I damage it.

Richard C von Brecht

Grits/grades of sandpaper and steel wool (near end, when cleaning up the small parts)? Otherwise, great video!

Bob Berger

Hey, just joined the Patreon and really enjoyed this. Going to be helpful as I restore my grandfather's pre-WWII Stanley #4. Quick question: the oil can you use? What kind of oil is it? Does it come in that can, or did you just fill another one you had? Do you just stuff the whole thing tightly with rags so the oil gets soaked up and slowly wicks to the top as you turn it upside down to use? I've seen both you and Paul Sellers use this contraption before, but I don't think I've found an explanation beyond "this is oil in a can with some rags".

Christopher Hopkins

Are you hanging a hammer on the electrical conduit?

Brian Suker

Nice video Rex. A couple of comments though. Based on my own experience, I'd suggest soft leather gloves when working with the wire wheels. It only takes one slip to take a pretty good layer of hide off a finger. I agree with other comments about the glasses, and also suggest that you consider an organic solvent mask when you are sitting over a pan of solvent of any kind for longer periods. And finally, putting oiled parts down on the surface of your WOODWORKING bench doesn't seem like the best idea.

Merritt Derr

the only American distributor is Candan Industries USA LLC Green Cove Springs, FL. It looks like it was developed for marine applications but I was put onto it by a very excited woodworker, gotta say it is magic at loosening seized rusty parts.

Jo Moreau

The point I was getting at you are presenting how to do to some people who never did the task before and safety comes first especially with eye protection

John Kiernan

Yes, I think even partial climate control can be helpful. My 'shop' is really a shed in the back yard that also stores the lawnmower (moisture from spare grass clippings), the snow blower (moisture from caked-on snow), the wheelbarrow (metal that seems to attract condensation), the metal ladder (condensation), a nailed on roof (condensation dripping from too-long nails) and so on. The tools seem to be rusted more from that sort of proximity and a lack of heat in the space that would push moisture and cold out... but mostly it's imagination that I could have stored the tools better, and other, than I did... :-D

Andrew Watt

Thank you!

Rex Krueger

It takes a while to learn which solvents work for which gunk. Mineral spirits is petroleum-based, so it works on petroleum-based crud like grease, oil, and such. Turpentine and even common gasoline also work for these things. USE WITH CARE!

Rex Krueger

I'm glad that you're finding it useful!

Rex Krueger

I've never heard of that product! Seems like it's worth a try.

Rex Krueger

You're very welcome!

Rex Krueger

It was my pleasure. Thanks for watching!

Rex Krueger

Tool collectors also don't care for type 19 Stanleys, so I think I'm in the clear!

Rex Krueger

What a drag! I guess the rust-preventing capabilities of the tool chest aren't over rated. Come to think of it, my new shop is only partly climate controlled, but I use a chest and all is well. Even a basic chest really helps.

Rex Krueger

That was indeed Adam from Black Sheep. His music is the only stuff I use right now.

Rex Krueger

I must admit, I never do. Some risks I can live with.

Rex Krueger

If it's just the horn, you can often graft a new one on pretty easily. I use walnut, which is a tolerable match for rosewood once you get a little linseed oil and shellac on there. NOS handles can be pricy.

Rex Krueger

The oil and the sandpaper does indeed get into the wood and this is just my day-to-day bench.

Rex Krueger

Well, none of it would be possible without your support and encouragement, so thank you, too!

Rex Krueger

Good to have multiple options!

Rex Krueger

I can just tell you right now: pour on mineral spirits. Wait 10 minutes. Peels off like a ripe banana.

Rex Krueger

Thank you for saying so!

Rex Krueger

Great video, Rex.

Marco P. Lascari

Wish I had tried mineral spirits on an old block plane I've been trying to restore. I used vinegar which was ok with a toothbrush but it left a lot of film and I ended up cleaning it after I removed the rust. Not exactly a time saver. Thanks, Rex!

TeddyB!!

Thanks for the advice on de-rusting tools it really helps in cleaning tools

Carlos Alvarado

I’ve been restoring a couple of old rusty Stanley #4 and #5 planes that I picked up cheap, plus a #71 router plane. I’m also expecting delivery of a #78 rabbet plane, complete but pretty rusty ($45 AUD on eBay) . I don’t have a wire wheel, so never thought of it, nor did I use any mineral spirits. I’m using an Australian product called Lanox to loosen up the parts and clean them. It’s an anti-moisture, anti-corrosion lubricant made with a high grade oil and lanolin base, and is working like a charm - they have one distributor in the USA if you’re interested in trying it. ~ inoxmx.com/products/mx4-lanox-lanolin-lubricant/ I’m using toothbrush, a small wire brush, fine steel wool for the fiddly bits, but will get a set of those little bristle brushes to get rid of any grit in the threads - top idea. I’m using wet and dry sandpaper adhered to a glass plate with the lanox for the sole and sides of the planes.

Jo Moreau

Great video, Rex. Could have used some of the tips a while ago. But they'll come in handy for the next bit of dust to tackle. Oh and thanks for sharing!

Wouter Engels

Excellent presentation Rex. Thank you very much.

Matt Evans-Koch

Wire wheels will remove rust but it is obvious that a wire wheel has been used. Tool collectors do not much care for tools that have been abused with a wire wheel.

Steve Christoffers

This is good. My tool chest cracked sometime late last winter, and I opened it this summer and autumn, and discovered that most of my hand-tools are badly rusted, particularly the planes. I'm going to need to spend this winter cleaning, de-rusting, tuning, sharpening, and oiling...

Andrew Watt

Thanks for sharing Rex! I've got a #3 to clean up and restore, so nice timing. Was that some Black Sheep Banjo for the music? Excellent choice!

Robert

You did not use eye protection when using the minimal spirits otherwise great president.

John Kiernan

This is perfect timing. My new daughter-in-law gave me her grandfather’s forties era Stanley #5 for Christmas to add to my growing collection. It needs a heavy cleaning and the tote is missed the tip of thumb notch. Hopefully I can get a used Rosewood one from one of the used parts resellers. Now I’ll have working planes from four generations.

Richard C von Brecht

Is the bench you used cleaning the plane the same to use for woodworking? Does the oil/sandpaper etc get into the wood? Great job on the plane cleanup! Looking forward to the other chapters.

Don Heselton

This takes me back...four years ago when I started restoring a Stanley# 7 to use on some boat parts I wanted to make, and stumbled across Rex on YouTube. So many great things that Rex has steered me into, bench building, sharpening, tool restoration, the hand tool processes, and now guitar building. I might have ended up in the same place eventually, but I owe Rex so much, a HUGE Thank You!

John Griswold

EvapoRust is the cat’s pajamas and my go to rust remover on my old tools.

Bruce E Harang II

For a cheap type 19 number 4 or 5 the wire wheel is fine but for more collector planes the wire wheel is too abrasive for me. I use evaporust as it is non-toxic, biodegradable and once the rust is gone it stops unlike vinegar. The evaporust gets into all the area brushes and swabs can’t. It is also reusable. After the evaporust I run it under hot water and then dry off all the parts.

Boney Boards

Love the content! One thing I haven't seen anywhere on YouTube, but which was a giant pain- I've worn out sandpaper that I glued down with super77... For the pay video, would you go over how you get it off and put new sandpaper down? It's the worst part of using the method.

Geoffrey Wilson

Just plane awesome

Brian Suker


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